Article,Outdoor Activities"> Article,Outdoor bouldering can be one of the most rewarding and easily accessible ways to get out on rock. In this new series, we take a tour through different regions of the UK exploring the best boulder problems in the 4s, 5s and 6s. First up on our whistlestop tourwhere else...">
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Article"> The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A Article
The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A Article
Jun 26, 2024 8:49 AM

Outdoor bouldering can be one of the most rewarding and easily accessible ways to get out on rock. In this new series, we take a tour through different regions of the UK exploring the best boulder problems in the 4s, 5s and 6s.

First up on our whistlestop tourwhere else but the Peak District, in many ways the ancestral home of English climbing. Yes, the Peak has been a forcing ground over decades, but it is also perhaps the only place in the UK that is genuinely packed with a variety of venues for the mere mortals among us. It boasts two distinctive rock types, gritstone and limestone (granted limestone bouldering is not for everyone) and literally thousands of potential problems in this grade range across every angle, style and aspect.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Even focusing on a relatively small area, choosing just ten boulder problems was an almost impossible task, with many crags boasting an array of brilliant blocs that all deserve their moment in the sun.

View this as a taster: a geographic breakdown that should encourage you to go and take in some of the undisputable best, and a few not-so-hidden gems. Once you're done, keep exploringmany of the finest problems to be climbed are well off the beaten track.

If you're new to bouldering outdoors, why not check out our helpful UKC explainer on making the transition from gym to crag.

Not to be Taken Away (f6C), Stanage Plantation

The Plantation is, without doubt, one of the mostfamous and popular bouldering areas in the Peak.

No list of 'top' boulder problems in the UK, or perhaps even further afield, should omit this photogenic rite of passage. It is on the high side for sure, which really only adds to its appeal, but if you can negotiate the fiendish opening moves then the ever-improving rails above should hold no fear for you. Bouldering is always better with friends, though, so bring along a pad-shuffler if you can.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Crescent Arête (f5+), Stanage Plantation

Can you really start anywhere else? The original classic, high and hard for the grade (whatever that means) and a total 'must-do' (whatever that means!). Superlatives aside, it is satisfyingly rewarding to climb and, like many classics at Stanage and beyond, can be repeated over and over without losing the joy of climbing it.

An honourable mention has to go to Pebble Arete (6A), also at the Plantation. If Crescent Arte seems intimidating, this one is just that little bit shorter and still packs in plenty of thought-provoking movement.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Banana Finger (f6A), Burbage North

Gritstone at its finest: a definitive classic, yet subtly weird enough to remain satisfying. Go up, go left, go up, go right. Somehow end up basically back where you started! Hips, shoulders, knees, and toes (and some fingers) will likely all be required for a successful ascent.

Eminent Western Grit Ripple (f6B+), Newstones

A deceptive bloc that packs far more punch than a cursory inspection would suggest. This perfect line at Newstones follows the kind of flowing feature you cannot help but enjoy climbing, though the presence of a line of crimps does not necessarily make it basic. A problem that rewards a clear head and clever footwork right to the end.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (f6C), Curbar

Did we just put this on the list because of its name? You could be forgiven for thinking so. Luckily for everyone, it is actually a phenomenal boulder problem too. It involves the kind of classic squeezing, fridge-hugging behaviour that leaves you with 'grit rash' but it's so worth it.

Chip Shop Mantel (f6B+), Rowtor Rocks

No list of gritstone boulders is complete without a bizarre and/or brilliant mantel. Chip Shop makes you work for it, giving lots of good long pulls on a single, attractive juggy feature looping up and round the corner, before the real business begins. There's lots of ways to get both hands and feet up to the right heightall of them committing and none of them secure!

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Three Pocket Slab (f6A), The Roaches

One of the most-ticked things on UKC for a good reason. Despite the popularity, it's certainly no pushover and it provides an exemplary lesson in remembering that 'it's not over 'til it's over'. Also another reminder (if this list needed any more) that classic boulders and imaginative naming rarely go together!

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Sharks Fin (f4+), Ramshaw Rocks

Who says all the best features have to be hard? This distinctive and memorable line is about as friendly as they get, with a nice flat landing, positive holds and flowy, enjoyable climbing. It's one everyone can try, and it's part of a great circuit at Ramshaw in the more approachable grades.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

The Ramp (f6B), Churnet Valley

It's not even in the Peak District! The Churnet Valley has hidden away plenty of brilliant boulder problems over the years, waiting for travellers to journey that little bit further down the M6. The Ramp is no exception, an enticing line that looks and climbs more like a Font 7 than a Font 6. At a crag with no shortage of eye-poppingly serious problems (routes?) this is one is surprisingly agreeableeven if it still feels a bit go-ey at the top.

(Dis)honourable mention (Peak Limestone, all of it) We tried extremely hard to seek out an 'easy' classic on limestone worth recommending, ultimately concluding that it could not be done (at least within the bounds of good access principles and actually enjoyable rock climbing). The conventional wisdom seems to be that limestone lends itself to steely fingers, desperate moves and a sadomasochistic dispositionyou aren't missing much!

UKC Staff Recommendations Alongside the list outlined above we thought we'd add in a few others from a UKC perspective.

A Fearful Orange (f6C+), Gardoms

Whilst it's not a new problem, it never used to get talked about, and still doesn't reallybut it deserves to. It's high, but not outrageously so, but has a slightly sloping landing which adds to the excitement and/or terror, depending on how you feel (a few pads and a spotter makes things more managable). The rock is great, the problem is intricate, and the top is unforgettable. Why doesn't it get done more often?!?

Other Gardoms suggestions: G-Thang (f6B+), Pogles Wood (f6C), English Voodoo (f6C+)

Brads Arête The Presence of Absence (f6C+), Stanton

Let's throw it out there and say that this is the best Font 6 in the Peak District. Aesthetically it's unmatched, partly because of the problem itself, which is immaculate, and partly because of the tree that's grown in the crack behind it. It's a beauty to behold and climbs brilliantly too.

Other Stanton suggestions: Chicken Run (f6A), Appliance Friction (f6B)

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Stretch and Mantel (f6C), Roaches

Whilst the name may not be the most imaginative or inspirational, it does inform you of what is requiredand you definitely need to do both in order to find your way to the top of it. The stretch isn't easy, requiring some intricate footwork and awkward underclinging in order to make it to the hold which you're then required to mantle, which is something of a shock upon first acquaintance. It's the sort of problem that indoor climbing can't quite prepare you for, as it's just weird, but brilliantly so, and is very gritstone (whatever that means).

Other Roaches suggestions: Three Pocket Slab (f6A) (mentioned above), Joes Arête (Browns Arete) (f6A)

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Conan the Librarian (f6B+), Mother Cap

Mother Cap is visible for miles around, standing proud of the landscape that surrounds it, and as a result calls out to be climbed upon. The word 'iconic' is overused, but it's appropriate in the case of Mother Cap and Conan. The line of Conan goes straight up the centre of its steepest (and best) face and despite having done it many times before, it never seems to feel easy. The breaks, where the holds are, never seem to feel quite as positive as you want and most of your initial forays will be spent piano playing, trying to find the best bits, but that's half the fun of Conan. It's a good one to have a few goes at. Savour the taste, then scuttle off sideways when you eventually reach the top.

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Egg Arête (f6B), Cratcliffe

Egg Arete either feels easy or impossible. Its superbly sculpted slopers are at the more marginal end of the spectrum, with very little to grip onto for both hands and feet. It's all about trusting your feet and getting enough height over the holds to press down on your palms. You'll either love it or be infuriated by it.

Other Cratcliffe suggestions: Razor Roof (f6C), Brain Dead (f6C)

The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A small class=

Perfect Porthole Problem (f5+), Dovestone Tor

The Derwent Edges are the Peak District's finest 'mountaineering circuit', with a great set of problems spanning Hurkling Stones in the south to Back Tor and Howshaw Tor to the north. In between the two lies Dovestone Tor, where the Perfect Porthole problem lies. It's a walk to get up there, but the views and vantage point make it worth itparticularly on a fine spring/summer evening. When it comes to the problem itself, it's always nice when a boulder is defined by an obvious feature and this isn't a feature that disappointsit is indeed the perfect porthole. Unfortunately the top-out is a little less perfect and it's not over 'til it's over!!

Other Dovestone Tor suggestions: Stingray Arête (f5+), Curving Arête (f6B)

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