Article,Outdoor Activities"> Article,Borrowdale is the perfect place to develop your trad climbing skills. It's a valley with a long and storied climbing history where many have honed their practice over the years. The volcanic rhyolite here is one of my favourite rock types to climb on. It is full of features and...">
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Article"> Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under Article
Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under Article
Sep 20, 2024 11:21 AM

Borrowdale is the perfect place to develop your trad climbing skills. It's a valley with a long and storied climbing history where many have honed their practice over the years.

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

The volcanic rhyolite here is one of my favourite rock types to climb on. It is full of features and friction (apart from the odd spot where it has worn through with the passage of hundreds of climbers).

The climbs in this idyllic valley offer ample year-round climbing. Parking can be tricky, but for extra eco-points you can also access these crags by bike, hitch-hike or public transport: bus 77 and 78 travel along Borrowdale from Keswick.

Join the ranks and get some all-important practice in with this list of 10 routes at VS and under to develop your love of trad climbing.

Shepherd's Crag Little Chamonix (VD) - 4 pitches

This is THE classic of the valley. Gain yourself a Classic Rock tick by completing this memorable journey up Shepherd's Crag. Enjoy the bum slide across the slippery cornerand take a banjo to pose on the top pitch in tribute to the iconic 1960s photo advertising the local Lamplighter Folk Group. Alternatively, do it in boxing gloves and roller skates like Ray McHaffie.

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

Ardus (VS 4b) - 2 pitches

A mild VS taking in the dominating corner. Practice those bridging skills then try some face-climbing, moving out leftwards following a crack-line into brilliant exposure. Ardus, like every other climb at Shepherd's, has a great top-out position, with solid oak tree belays and glorious views over Derwent Water to Cat Bells and Skiddaw.

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

Eve (VS 4c) - 3 pitches

There are so many great routes at Shepherd's and Eve is another gem. Over three pitches, weave your way up the buttress, taking in a number of wonderful features. Feel the history as you climb: Eve was first climbed by Bill Peascod, a local working class hero. This Cumbrian coal miner laboured in Workington and escaped from the mines on his days off to take to the eastern fells where he put up a number of outstanding routes. Bill later moved to Australia and became an artist. The man had an eye for a line: you can see his talent in the routes he established across the north eastern fells. Watch Bill Peascod and Chris Bonnington in action in this fabulous film, capturing the traditional spirit of Lakes mountain cragging. Socks on!

(If you're climbing well, then don't miss Adam, Eve's harder companion, at VS 5a.)

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

Black Crag Troutdale Pinnacle (S) - 6 pitches

A little further up Borrowdale, Black Crag has a lovely approach through the oakwoods. Troutdale Pinnacle offers 100 metres of quality climbing, taking in sensational positions up the airy crag. Fight the polish, find the holds and climb to the top of that pinnacle for an exposed and memorable belay. With good reason, this is held to be one of the best Severes in the UK and another Classic Rock tick!

(If the bottom of the route is busy and you're feeling competent, take on Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (VS 4c) at VS 4a or Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect (HVS 5a) at HVS 5a)

Gillercombe Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a) 7 pitches

A third Classic Rock route in the valley gives an indication of the quality of climbing to be found in Borrowdale. Over 200 metres of rock at a higher elevation, Gillercombe Buttress offers a taste of the airy pleasures of mountain cragging. Think vast views, lots of pitches and topping out to a stunning Lakeland panorama. Aspiring alpinists can then hike up to Great Gable and climb Engineers Slabs (VS 4c) on the enigmatic North Face. However you do it, pick a sunny day and you're guaranteed a great climb and a fine introduction to mountain cragging.

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

Raven Crag Raven Crag Buttress (VD) 4 pitches

At the head of Combe Ghyll, a valley that nestles into Glaramara, you can take a longer walk-in for another taste of mountaineering. The crag is 'atmospheric', which is guidebook-speak for remote and shady. It faces north-east and so is the perfect place for climbing in a heatwave or the rain! Raven Crag Buttress takes on the eponymous buttress with rising views down to Derwent Water.

Top 10 Borrowdale Routes at VS and Under small class=

Corvus, The Direct Start (S 4a) - 5 pitches

Corvus is the more popular route at Raven Crag. Described as a route for all seasons, check out the UKC gallery for proof! If you want the extra traditional tick on this mountain route, climb Corvus in big boots in the rain. If you are less of a pluviophile, then wait it out in Keswick Pencil Museum and return in the dry.

Bowderstone Crags Bowderstone Pinnacle (S 4a) - 2 pitches

You will find Bowderstone Crag a short walk above the magnificent Bowderstone boulder. Stop here to get those fingers warmed up for the main event! If you have not had enough of rhyolite pinnacles yet, there is Bowderstone Pinnacle, the classic of the crag. Enjoy the positions and scenery, while holding your nerve for this adventurous romp.

When you have finished, take a wander over to Hell's Wall for further inspiration for your next big project!

Wodens Face (VS 4b) andWodens Face Direct (VS 4c) - both 1 pitch

A five-minute walk-in with a low-lying west-facing aspect makes this a great spot for a short day or sunny afternoon. The climbs are single-pitch and technical, helping you to practise some different skills. The routes are all graded between Severe and VS. Wimpey Way (S 4a), Woden's Face, Woden's Face Direct and Wodens Cheek (VS 4c) are all worth climbing.

Buckstone How Sinister Grooves (VS 4c) - 3 pitches

In the stunning Honister Pass, Sinister Grooves is technically just outside of Borrowdale but well worth a visit. Climbing on Buckstone How takes you into a different aspect of Lakeland history. Swap the oakwoods and rhyolite for Cumbrian slate served up with a good dose of mining detritus, from inclines to waste scree-slopes, rusting machinery and tunnels leading into dark mines within the mountains.

This south-west facing crag is blessed with plenty of sunshine (don't forget the sun lotion!) and offers great views over the cars, buses and cyclists struggling over the pass. Sinister Grooves is steep and technical; the perfect finale to test all the skills you've learned across these top 10 Borrowdale routes. If you're going well, make sure to also climb Cleopatra (HVS 5a) at HVS 5a. Both Cleopatra and Sinister Grooves are Bill Peascod lines and offer 80 metres of inspired climbing.

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