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Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul
Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul
Feb 24, 2025 4:09 AM

  If there’s one attitude that’s nearly universal among adventure athletes, it’s a pathological commitment to optimism. Irishmen Johnny Coyne and Liam Cotter possess this quality in spades. In the last 5 months, theyve camped in freezing cold temperatures beneath the Cliffs of Dover, hauled loaded kayaks uphill for 100 miles through Germanys Black Forest, and when they knocked a hole through one of their boats in a French canal, they went door to door asking for help to repair it.

  To these many obstacles, Coyne merely says, “It’s all part of the experience.”

  The two 24-year-olds set out from Ireland in early September 2024 to pull off an improbable quest: kayaking across Europe from Dublin to Istanbul. That could make them the first people in the world to travel the continent by kayak. It hasnt been easy, and several setbacks have added months to the planned itinerary.

  But when GearJunkie caught up with them in January, Coyne and Cotter were happily setting up camp along the Danube River, near Germanys border with Austria. Of the 3,100 total miles likely required to reach Istanbul, the pair have traveled more than 1,200. Theyll now follow the Danube through Eastern Europe until it empties into the Black Sea, where theyll follow the coastline all the way to Istanbul.

  I know this is going to be one of the longest and most unique journeys I’ll ever do, Coyne said.Trying to stay in the present moment is key.

  

Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul1

  The duo kayaks through a canal in Warrington, England, in October 2024; (photo/Johnny Coyne) Channels and Canals While Coynes kayaking quest has been more difficult than he expected — its far from his first grand adventure. The young Irishman has committed himself to daring outdoor journeys in the last few years, from cycling to Portugal and trekking across Nepal to a bike trip from Canada to Costa Rica (without knowing a lick of Spanish).

  Though neither consider themselves serious kayakers, Coyne and Cotter compensate for the lack of experience with an indefatigable attitude.

  I didn’t have too much expectations of the journey. I just knew it was gonna be hard, Coyne said.

  Its possible that the most difficult parts of the trip are already behind them. For starters, it took them 9 long hours of paddling to make an unsupported crossing of the Irish Sea to England. They arrived at 10 p.m., slept for a few hours beneath the famous White Cliffs of Dover, and then woke up at 4 a.m. to start their crossing of the English Channel.

  Though theyd planned on having a support boat for some extra protection while crossing one of the business shipping lanes in the world — the operator canceled at the last minute. So Coyne and Cotter once again paddled unsupported, pulling off a 12-hour crossing while fighting the channels fierce winds and waves.

  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Johnny Coyne (@johnnybegood.1)

  Usually, the pair spend each night camping on whatever soft riverbank they can find. They keep their kayaks loaded with food, water, camping gear, and clothing. The original idea was to spent almost the entire journey traveling by water — but France had other plans.

  Coyne and Cotter were kicked off the countrys canals for 2 to 3 weeks for paddling them without special permission from the government. And by the time they finally received a permit, winter had arrived and frozen the waterways.

  Realizing that portaging their kayaks long distances was going to be necessary to have a chance at finishing the trip, they spent 3 weeks in a French village awaiting attachable wheels. But even that proved fulfilling, as a local named Bruno introduced them to his football club (that means soccer) and found them a more comfortable sleeping situation at a local fire station.

  Theres a massive learning curve always. There’s only so much planning you can do, Coyne said. And it’s always the most memorable parts of all my journeys. We wouldn’t have experienced any of that if we hopped on a bus.

  

Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul2

  (Photo/Johnny Coyne) Portaging Through Europe It was never part of Coynes plan to do long portages with loaded kayaks weighing up to 200 pounds —especially in urban areas.

  Yet thats the situation Coyne and Cotter repeatedly found themselves confronting in France and Germany. Sometimes, thats a relatively short jaunt around the odd weir blocking the waterway. Other times, it involves a prolonged carry, like their 100-mile portage through Germanys Black Forest (a really cool, mystical place).

  But perhaps the toughest portages are through cities, where these traveling Irishmen must contend with moving cars and city traffic. They also become the subject of bizarre fascination among bemused locals.

  

Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul3

  (Photo/Johnny Coyne) For some reason, we love chaos — but it does get very stressful at times going through cities, Coyne said. Everyone is looking at you like what the f*** are you doing? Most people are smiling and laughing, though there are a few honking.

  Meanwhile, their gear has held up relatively well to all the abuse. Coyne and Cotter have been paddling in Pyranha Valkyries, an outdated sea kayak model from the British boat maker. They also got sponsored soon after starting their journey, receiving a couple of Palm Equipment dry suits that have made all the difference.

  They’re an absolute gamechanger, Coyne said. We probably wouldn’t be finishing the journey without them.

  The Kindness of Strangers As Coyne recounted the most special moments of his trip so far, it was the unexpected kindnesses that received the most attention. Over and over, the duo were aided, fed, and saved from potential disaster thanks to complete strangers.

  In fact, the duo is now a trio. Coynes friend Ryan Fallon, also 24 years old, joined up in Strasbourg, Germany, and hopes to finish the rest of the pilgrimage to Istanbul.

  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Johnny Coyne (@johnnybegood.1)

  Last week, the three were traveling down the Danube River in Germany when some whitewater slammed Cotters kayak against a rock, producing a massive hole. Feeling distraught about overcoming this problem while in the middle of nowhere, Coyne found a nearby road and knocked on the first house he found to ask to help.

  Against all odds, the German man who emerged actually owned a plastic welder, and was able to fix Cotters boat in a half hour. Then, another man arrived to help repair the kayak. Coyne and Cotter had called him earlier, but werent sure hed arrive in time. The man not only invited them to stay in his home for the night, but also gave Fallon a kayak for free. (Fallons kayak was old, full of holes, and lacked storage.)

  It went from a terrible disaster to something that happened for a reason, Coyne said. We had people invite us into their homes and were constantly getting looked after by really nice people.It’s amazing how many people have tried to help us.

  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Johnny Coyne (@johnnybegood.1)

  Halfway There Its been a tough, complicated journey to make it about halfway to their intended destination, but Coyne is hopeful the most difficult bits are already behind them.

  Ahead is the rest of the Danube River, which theyll follow through Eastern Europe until arriving at the Black Sea. Once there, theyll paddle along the seas northern coastline all the way to the Turkish city once called Constantinople. When Coyne talked with GearJunkie last week, it was soon after he, Cotter, and Fallon had set up their camping tents, preparing for another night in sub-zero temperatures.

  Though clearly tired, Coynes optimism never wavered. He repeatedly voiced his gratitude for the people who helped get them this far, and described his deep appreciation for the rivers and forests that had provided so much solitude.

  

Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul4

  Coyne near the Cliffs of Dover; (photo/Johnny Coyne) With a few months still left to go, he and Cotter still hope to meet the fundraising goal of their trip. Their GoFundMe page aims to raise €30,000 to build a second location of Daisy Lodge, a charity for children with cancer, just down the road from the village where Coyne grew up. Once home in Ireland, they hope to complete a documentary of their journey.

  But first, theyll have to finish what they started.

  I might not ever do a journey as long as this again, Coyne said. We wanted to do pure travel — pure adventure — and see what happens. And thats what we got.

  

Trans-European Kayak Expedition: Duo Paddles, Portages From Ireland to Istanbul5

  Watch '¡Ay Chihuahua!': An Epic Mexican Exploratory Kayak AdventureTwo of the world's best exploration kayakers grab a guidebook and work to tick off the un-run rivers in the Chihuahua and Sinaloa areas of Mexico. Read more

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